We explored India in a set of itineraries, but mostly we came here to wander, learn and enjoy for six months. You can see a slide show of pictures below. For journal postings from India, CLICK HERE.
Our itineraries:
- Delhi – Bhopal – Gwalior – Orchha – Khajuraho – Bandhavgarh National Park – Varanasi
- Delhi to Leh – Uletokpo (Lamayuru Alchi) – Leh – Nubra Valley – Leh to Manali Highway:(Tsomoriri Lake – Tsokar lake – Sarchu – Jispa) – Manali – Mcleod Ganj/Dharamsala – Amritsar – Haridwar – Rishikesh
- Delhi – Darjeeling – Pelling – Gangtok – Kalimpong – Kolkata – Sunderbans – Bhubaneshwar – Puri
- Chennai – Mahabalipuram – Chidambaram & Gingee – Tiruvannamalai – Pondicherry – Kumbakonam – Thanjore – Pudukkottai/Chettinad – Madurai – Thekkady/Periyar – Alleppey/Backwaters – Kochi (Fort Cochin)
- Bangalore – Kabini R./Nagarhole Nat’l Park – Mysore – Chikmagalur – Hospet/Hampi – Badami – Hubli – Goa – Mumbai – Pune – Aurangabad – Delhi
- Delhi – Agra – Chambal National Park – Bharatpur/Keoladeo – Jaipur – Pushkar – Jojawar/Aravali Hills – Udaipur – Kumbalgarh/Ranakpur – Jodhpur – Thar Desert – Jaisalmer – Bikaner – Mandawa – Delhi
Overall, it was an exciting and eventful cultural and historical tour of India. With typical license plates to prove it…and a beat-up guidebook.
We toured over one hundred cities in 16 states and 3 Union Territories, plus untold number of villages.
We visited 24 World Heritage Sites, 110 temples/temple complexes/mosques/tombs, 92 cave temples, 15 museums, 20 churches, 24 monasteries, and 29 forts/palaces.
Outdoors, we explored 7 national parks, did 19 safaris, saw 218 different species of birds and other exciting wildlife like Indian elephants, leopards, tigers, foxes, wild dogs, mongoose, turtles, and gharial.
To do it, we used 6 trains, 12 boats, 12 planes, and 16 drivers across thousands of miles.
You can also browse the map below for where we’ve been in India (and posted about it). Click a pushpin to find posted articles from the marked locations.
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SLIDE SHOW HINT: If you’ve already seen the earlier pictures in the slide show, use the dot placemarks below the slides to jump around.

The states we visited in India 
The Blue city, Jodhpur 
Zipline at Mehrangarh fort, Jodhpur 
Zipline at Jodhpur fort 
Zipline at Jodhpur fort 
Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur 
The White City of Udaipur 
Celebrating Diwali 
Shopping for Diwali 
Shop decorations to attract buyers, Diwali 
Rooftop view of Taj Mahal, Agra 
Store offerings for Diwali 
Monolithic stone temple of Kailash, Ellora 
Monolithic stone temple of Kailash, Ellora 
Inscription from Mahabharata, Kailash Temple, Ellora 
Monolithic stone temple of Kailash, Ellora 
Bibi-ka-Maqbara, not the Taj Mahal, Aurangabad 
Worship at a Church of South India, Mumbai 
6th century atrium carved from stone, Elephanta Island 
Paying homage to Trimurti, Elephanta Island, Mumbai 
Houseboating on the Backwaters, Alleppey 
Textile market, Madurai 
Gandhi Museum, Madurai 
San Thome Cathedral, Chennai 
Invocation to prayer, Puri 
Village children practicing the fishing trade, Puri 
Camel rides at the beach, Puri 
Ashoka’s edicts in stone, 3rd Century BC 
Mt. Kangchenjunga, Himalayas, as seen from Darjeeling 
Hills of Rishikesh 
Overlooking Manali 
Skimming the waters, Manali 
Ready to jump in, Manali 
Grazing yaks, Leh-Manali highway 
Yellow wagtail, Nubra Valley 
Atop Khardung La, highest driveable pass in world 
Town of Leh, Ladakh 
Overlooking Leh, Ladakh 
On the Indus River, Ladakh 
Rafting the Indus River, Ladakh 
Detail of Buddihist temple, Sanchi 
Elegantly carved torana, Sanchi 
Train station, Delhi 
Street vendor, Delhi 
Home decor stall, Delhi 
Celebrating Shivatri festival at the Ganges, Rishikesh 
The state of our guidebook after six months in India 
Plaque commemorating the founding of Delhi 
Night view, the tombs of Hauz Khas 
Medieval madras, Hauz Khas, Delhi 
Chic Hauz Khas Village by day 
The evening walkabout at Hauz Khas reservoir 
The columnar tower of 13th century Qutub Minar 
Splendid 13th century Islamic gateway at Qutub Minar complex 
Remains of early Muslim royal structures, Qutub Minar 
Tombs at Hauz Khas with the village behind 
Tombs of Hauz Khas from the 14th century 
Local Indians lounge at the ancient madrasa, or try to enter 
16th century tomb of Mughal leader Humayun, model for Taj Mahal 
Interior of central section, where emperor Humayun is buried 
Elegant tomb near the site of Humayun’s 
Imposing walls of Red Fort 
Welcome hall, Red Fort 
Decorative ceiling on the welcome hall, Red Fort 
The audience hall of Red Fort, where the shah held court 
Recession and perspective draw the eye at the audience hall, Red Fort 
Elaborate decoration of private imperial chamber Red Fort 
Main prayer hall, Jama Masjid mosque 
Old Delhi from the tower, Jama Masjid 
Courtyard of Jama Masjid before prayers 
Barefoot visitors atop the 40 meter tower at Jama Masjid 
View of Red Fort and Chandni Chowk bazaar from atop tower, Jama Masjid 
Chandni Chowk, the heart of Old Delhi 
A open air Delhi dhobi, where laundry goes to get the dirt out 
Laxmi Narayan, contemporary Hindu temple 
An ancient stairstep well in the shadow of high rises at Connaught Place 
Prowling the back alleys of Hauz Khas, Delhi 
Eating vegetarian thali – with the right hand 
Busy markets, Paharganj 
Alleyways of Paharganj 
Wired in Paharganj 
Maker of pots, Paharganj 
Potter’s collection and assistants, Paharganj 
Sharing auto-rickshaw with friends 
Food prep in the alleys of Paharganj 
Food stalls line the lanes of Paharganj 
Former merchant’s house, old glories of Paharganj 
Our guide to Paharganj, Ejoz 
A safe place to play for street children 
Harappan dancing girl 
Another ancient dancer 
Haruppan Charioteer 
Stone sculpture – life of Buddha over 2000 years ago 
vignettes of Buddha’s life in ivory 
Krishna from Gupta Dynasty, 1500 years ago 
The god Vishnu riding winged Garuda 
Winged Garuda, the carrier of Vishnu 
Detail from Mughal painting – wedding of Shah Jahan’s son 
From the Body Ideal exhibit, National Museum 
From the Body Ideal exhibit, National Museum 
A fine hairdo, Delhi 
The north torana, or gateway, at the Great Stupa, Bhopal 
View from atop Sanchi 
Rich sculpture on arched bridge of north gate 
Reverse side of cross-sections, north gate 
Gateway panel of Royal Procession, north gate 
Buddha’s empty throne, with those left behind, east gate 
Detail – the earthbound 
A host of actions and reactions by temptresses 
Remains of a Buddhist temple at Sanchi, with rounded apse 
Lithe Buddha within monastery sanctuary 
Islamic architecture in Bhopal 
Sandstone shelters at Bhimbetka 
Devout man at ancient Hindu temple, Bhopal 
Animals teem on a part of Zoo Rock wall 
Part of a naturalistic herd on rock walls 
Complex hunting scene on Bhimbetka rock walls 
Man chased by massive boar while others dawdle 
Horse and elephant in perspective…plus jar and eggs? 
Crossing chicken, with or without head 
Onward, Mesolithic hunter-warriors 
Lurking snake 
“X-ray” deer, Bhimbetka 
Party time at Bhimbetka! Link hands; get dancing. 
Bustling, but moving rush hour – Chowdni Chowk, Old Delhi 
The bazaar of Old Delhi sparkles 
Storm clouds gather in the park 
Clean streets of Paharganj, Old Delhi 
Wetlands of Bandhavgarh National Park 
Sleek, clean Delhi subway – oops, no photos 
Daily marketing from local vendor at good prices 
Lady with fan: ancient way to beat the heat – Khajuraho 
On safari 
Our hosts tell tales of getting Face to face with a tiger 
Hanuman Langur monkey 
Hanuman Langur monkey 
Hanuman Langur monkey 
Bandhavgarh National Park 
Stone curlew, or thick-knee 
White spotted deer 
Sambal 
Indian pitta (nine-color, or nauranga) 
White-throated kingfisher 
Jackal 
Lesser adjutant stork 
Crested hawk eagle 
Gaur, misnamed as Indian bison 
White-eyed buzzard eagle 
Indian roller 
Bandhavgarh National Park 
What, no tigers??? 
Sharing the road, Leh-Manali highway 
The safari jeeps gather at the reservoir 
Our tiger in the distance at the reservoir 
Our tiger 
Four-fold tiers of Kandariya Mahadev Temple, rising to heaven 
Rich sculpture of the temple walls at Khajuraho 
Moving toward the inner sanctum, Khajuraho temples 
Four faced Shiva as a lingam within inner sanctum 
Rhythmic bas-relief of lower band at Lakshmana Temple 
When elephants collide at Lakshmana Temple, Khajuraho 
It’s party time at Lakshmana Temple, Khajuraho 
Party time at Lakshmana Temple, a bit more erotic 
Spires ascending to heaven, Kandariya Mahadev 
Columns of gods and mythical creatures adorn the temples, Khajuraho 
Demure divine love and primping attendant at Khajuraho 
Lovingly detailed – and very lithe – apsaras at Khajuraho 
Visions of heavenly delights in stone, the gods and graceful apsaras 
Elegant sculpture of Ganesha, Shiva’s son, at Khajuraho 
The tantric panels linking outer to inner halls, Kandariya Mahadev 
Rich sculpture of the temple walls at Khajuraho 
Temple spires, Varanasi 
Morning activity in the Ganges and the ghats 
Women drawing along the ghats 
Our boatman in the still Ganges at dawn 
Quiet of dawn in Varanasi 
Pilgrims ascend to temple at Kedara Ghat 
Palace at Digpatiya Ghat 
Bathing in the Ganges at the ghats 
Buildings along the Ganges – Ahilyabai Ghat 
Laundrymen cleaning in the Ganges 
Morning bathers jostle with the devout in the Ganges 
The devout gather in prayer at the always busy “main” ghat 
Pilgrims throng the “main” ghat in prayer 
Main cremation site, Manikarnika Ghat 
The daily bustle of Varanasi 
Wedding ceremony at dusk along the Ganges 
Votive candle sellers on the banks of the Ganges at Asi Ghat 
Floating a prayer candle at the aarti ceremony 
Pilgrims and onlookers gather for evening’s aarti ceremony, Varanasi 
The fiery aarti ceremony, Varanasi 
View from near Khardungla, north of Leh, highest drivable road in world 
Twisting along ancient trade routes to Leh at Rizhong Monastery 
Leh bread makers supplying modern visitors 
Trading at the bazaar in modern Leh 
Thikse Monastery, Ladakh 
Chemrey Monastery, Ladakh 
A monk stops to pray at the temple door, Thak Thog Monastery 
Time for prayer at Lamayuru Monastery 
Attendees at a festival celebration, Lamayuru Monastery 
Welcoming valleys near Leh 
“Julley, Julley,” from Nubra Valley villagers 
At highest drivable road in the world above Leh 
Descent into Nubra Valley 
Fertile fields amid the mountains, Nubra Valley 
Citrine Warbler, Nubra Valley 
Redshank hide and seek, Nubra Valley 
Nubra Valley 
Sand dunes in Nubra Valley 
Bactrian Camels, Nubra Valley sand dunes 
Stalled due to road conditions near Khardungla Pass 
Desert and irrigated fields near Leh 
Indus Valley near Leh 
Rafting the Indus River 
Indus Valley near Shey/Thikse 
Stuck in the ditch near Taglangla pass 
Lake at Tso-moriri, Rupshu Valley 
Lake at Tso-moriri 
Irrigation at Tso-moriri 
Along the Leh-Manali highway 
Sarchi along the Leh-Manali highway 
Along the Leh-Manali highway 
Alpine plateu, Leh-Manali highway 
On a descent, Leh-Manali highway 
Entering Manali on Leh-Manali highway 

Rolling and smushing the tea leaves 
Tea tasting, with first flush on the left 
Hillsides carpeted with tea bushes 
Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, from our hotel in Darjeeling 
Visitors stream toward the Wagah border for the ceremony 
In the stands at the Wagah border crossing ceremony, Amritsar 
Indian soldiers presiding over the Wagah border ceremony 
Pakistani soldiers presiding over the Wagah border ceremony 
Monument to the slaughtered at Jallianwala Bagh, Amritsar 
Approach to the Golden Temple, Eastern gate 
First view of Sri Harmandir Sahib 
The holy water of the moat around the Golden Temple 
Golden Temple detail 
The Sikh devotion to service means free meals to all 
Thousands stand in prayer at the Golden Temple 
Rice harvest, West Bengal 
Nearing high tide at Sunderbans 
Floating islands at high tide 
Eyed by an estuarine crocodile 
A village at Sunderbans 
A shrine honoring Bonabibi, who protects against tigers 
Fishing in Sunderbans delta near protective tiger netting 
Fresh tiger tracks, Sunderbans 
The narrowing channels at low tide 
Contours of land at low tide, Sunderbans 
Crabs emerge at low tide 
Resting on mangrove roots, Sunderbans 
Mudskipper at Sunderbans 
Even James Bond needs to eat in McLeod Ganj, home of Dalai Lama 
Young monks high in the clouds at Pelling, Sikkim 
Kalachakra, tantric ideal of Tibetan Buddhist, Chemrey Monastery 
Up to the prayer hall, Diskit Monastery, Nubra 
Ceremony in the plaza at Lamayuru Monastery 
Multi-storied du-khang, Chemrey Monastery 
Robes and praying stations await monks, Likkir Monastery 
Mandalas show pathways to nirvana, Thikse Monastery 
Wheel of life and death, Thikse Monastery 
Icons and gurus, Namgyal Tsemo Monastery, Leh 
Du-khang back wall, Yiga Choling Monastery, Darjeeling 
Two-story tall Buddha, Namgyal Tsemo Monastery, Leh 
Tsokye Dorje, or Rinpoche’s incarnation, Thikse Monastery 
Wall of many Buddhas, Chemrey Monastery 
Plaza and entry to prayer hall, Druk Sangag Choling Monastery 
Melting chortens, Leh, Ladakh 
Mani prayer wall, Thikse Monastery 
Spinning the prayer wheels, Darjeeling 
Decaying mansion of Chettinad 
Rope beats sword at Keralan martial arts display 
A most welcoming church in Mumbai 
Services at Church of South India, Mysore 
Pachcha/green character – mixing noble and touch of evil 
Eyes move in rhythm at Kathakali demonstration 
The king and drummer at Kathakali show 
Kathakali scene between king and daughter 
Guiding us thru the spice garden – with BIG lemons 
Peppercorn plant in the Thekkady spice gardens 
Orchid, Thekkady 
Morning boat cruise, Periyar National Park, Kerala 
Morning walk, Periyar National Park 
Flower of Thekkady 
Morning walk, Periyar National Park 
Wild bees throng the hives 
Mushrooms, Periyar National Park 
Leech on the protective booty 
Sunset on boat safari, Kabini River 
Tusker, peeking from the Kabini shore 
Malabar Pied Hornbill from afar, Kabini River 
When deers (Spotted) collide 
Wild dog pack on the hunt, Nagarhole 
Savoring the pleasures of a good safari, Kabini 
Lush forests, where the wild things hide 
Brown Fish Owl, Nagarhole National Park 
Gaur, wrongly called Indian Bison 
Asian elephant viewed on jeep safari, Nagarhole 
Malabar – or Blue Winged – Parakeet at the tree tops 
Morning light at Kabini on jeep safari 
Langurs – mother and child 
A Taste of Kabini 
Crested Hawk-Eagle at Nagarhole National Park 
Streak-throated woodpecker at work 
The leopard in the tree, on safari 
60 foot Bahubali at Sravanabelagola 
7th century Bahubali in Badami 
Ascent to Bahubali, Sravanabelagola 
View from the top over Sravanabelagola, Karnataka 
Entryway to Bahubali 
Icons of the Jain tirthankaras 
Tiny Jain icons carved in rock, Sravanabelagola 
Jain sculpture of tirthankaras, Gwalior 
6th century many-armed dancing Shiva, Badami Caves 
8th century dancing Shiva, Elephanta Cave 
Ratha stonework showroom, Mahaballipuram 
8th century Shore Temple, Mahaballipuram 
Sandstone temple of 11th c., Gangaikondacholapuram 
Dancing Shiva in stone, Thanjavur temple 
Bronze image at 12th c. Darasuram temple 
Bronze image at 12th c. Darasuram temple 
Thanjavur temple sandstone gopura 
Thanjavur temple courtyard 
Natarajas on display (Thanjavur) 
Nataraja, the dancing Shiva (Thanjavur) 
Nataraja, the dancing Shiva (Thanjavur) 
Chidambaram gateway gopura 
Images of classical dance, Chidambaram Temple 
Overview of Thiruvanamalai from sacred mountain 
Massive gateway, Thiruvanamalai 
Gateways of Thiruvanamalai and sacred mountain 
Elaborate gopura gateway, Madurai 
Detail of gopura with Shiva and Parvathi, Madurai 
Stone sculpture, Madurai Temple museum 
Wedding ceremony, Madurai temple 
Festival celebration in streets of Mumbai 
Shiva as trimurthi, three aspects of the divine, Elephanta 
National Center for Performing Arts, Mumbai 
Two emblems of Mumbai, the Taj Hotel and Gateway of India 
Marine Drive, Back Bay, Mumbai 
Shades of Bath, Mumbai 
Bank building, Fort area, Mumbai 
Posters for another daily newspaper, Mumbai 
Mumbai’s Museum,, once called the Prince of Wales 
The CST Railway station, Mumbai 
Heading to opportunity in Mumbai 
A bazaar and offices,the aspiration to more, Mumbai 
Crawford Market, Mumbai 
A precarious future: egg delivery at Crawford Market 
Words to live by from 60s style commune, Auroville 
Words to live by from 60s style commune, Auroville 
Crawford Market, Mumbai 
Passing thru the Aravali Hills 
Brief encounter: the family we met, Aravali Hills 
Family waves bye from the train, Aravali Hills 
Gateway to the Bon Monastery, where our monk awaits us 
Yak butter votives from the devout, Bon Monastery, Sikkim 
Kumbalgarh Fort, Aravali Hills 
Hills and temples from atop Kumbalgarh Fort 
Indian tourists storm Kumbalgarh Fort 
Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 
Hiking old British carriageway, Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 
Ridgeline view of Aravali HIlls, Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 
Mumbai hikers, Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 
Jain Temple, Ranakpur 
Jain Temple, Ranakpur 
Intricate marble wheel, Jain Temple, Ranakpur 
Carvings of precious stone, Jain Temple, Ranakpur 
Marble columns, Jain Temple, Ranakpur 
Under the dome of heaven, Jain Temple, Janakpur 
Amber Fort, Rajput fort and palace 
Jaipur today, Jai Singh’s city 
Old palace and new, Jaipur 
One of the doors for all seasons, Jaipur palace 
Hawa Mahal palace, Jaipur 
Astrologer shop, Bikaner 
Jantar Mantar, Jaipur 
Giant soupbowl, or astrolabe, Jantar Mantar 
Zodiac sculpture, Jantar Mantar 
Measuring star positions, Jantar Mantar 
Big sundial, Jantar Mantar 
Sundial, Jantar Mantar 
Astrologer tools, Jantar Mantar 
‘Stonehenge’ global clock, Jantar Mantar 
The press of traffic 
Road hazards, even on good roads 
Cattle processing street waste 
Wash day on the ghats 
A kirana, core retail unit of Indian cities 
Smell and taste of the city, a street food stall 
Village market 
Winding streets of Gangtok, north India 
Long straight streets of the pink city, Jaipur 
The look of a village center 
Enjoying the green space, Bangalore 
Cropland, Chambal 
Sarus cranes in the fields 
Blackbuck in planted field, Chambal 
Fishing on Chambal River 
Gharial, Chambal River 
Red crowned roof turtle and friends, Chambal River 
Sunset, Chambal River 
Farming town, Chambal 
Villager home greeting strangers 
Making the tea with the family 
Periyar, view from the spice fields 
Cardamom plant 
The Doctor is in, Jaisalmer 
Local kids, Bikaner 
Posing for the shot, Bikaner 
Camel driver, Thar Desert, Rajasthan
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That last pic makes me want Indian food for dinner