In brief: When inside Queluz palace, peering at once private spaces and awed at public ones, or outside with its formal gardens and ornate canal, you feel quite regal.
We felt fortunate to be escorted by friends to the rococo Palace of Queluz in the district of Sintra. Originally an 18th century summer home for the royals of Portugal, Queluz traces its style – inside and out – to the elaborate, fanciful decoration of Versailles. It traces its funding to the Brazilian gold that flowed here.
For example, the mirrored ballroom which greeted us upon entering immediately recalls Versailles. A quartet was practicing for a concert later in the day, so we eavesdropped on a Beatles’ tune in the style of Mozart.
Queluz has seen its share of difficulties: damage and delay from the 1755 earthquake; pillaging by Napoleonic forces; the ravings of Mad Queen Maria; the flight of the royals to Brazil; abandonment and fires. Now, beautifully restored and maintained, it makes for a dazzling visit.
Near the end, we posed with our hosts against the backdrop of the splendid palace, while we enjoyed the warmth of the afternoon. We were not surprised to learn that modern day governments try to impress foreign dignitaries by hosting them here, including accommodations in one of the wings. Quite a few presidents of the US and France slept here.
Inside
It’s impossible to feel anything but awestruck when being “received” into the sumptuous Hall of Ambassadors, or Throne Room. On the ceiling, various gods and notables are depicted on a balcony looking down at invited guests like us.
The richly decorated royal chapel, one of the first rooms to be built in the palace.
The Hall of Azulejos, or painted tiles. This long connecting passage felt like a destination in itself. We stopped for a long time to savor it. The tall colorful panels depict elaborate mythical scenes as well as portraits from contemporary life. Below them along the base are more traditional scenes of country life in the customary blue and white style of the period.
This whirling ceiling with botanical drawings hovers over a room in the royals’ private residences, accompanied by trompe l’oeil paintings on the walls and scenes of children playing.
A gathering spot in the private residences of the royals, with another of those sinuous chandeliers at the centers of rooms throughout the palace.
The painted ceilings and walls throughout the palace deliver a diverse source of amazement. This one – just one of the vast spaces for guests – was clearly intended to delight as well as divert royal invitees.
Here the woodsy walls reach up toward hunting scenes with dogs, deer and centaurs. In the middle, another of those elaborate chandeliers contends for attention.
Outside
A view of the entire palace enclosing the grounds, with its two main public areas as the most prominent features. The buildings were kept low as the designers were mindful of that devastating earthquake.
Sixteen hectares (40 acres) of grounds include these formal gardens, graced by elaborate fountains like this one. The principal architect of the palace was Portuguese, who also worked on the more austere Mafra palace, but the gardens and some very Louis-style rooms were designed by a Frenchman.
A 100 meter (100 yard) canal cuts through the gardens, completely festooned with tiled scenes of disporting gentry, detailed landscapes, and ancient narratives. You could happily spend hours examining these. In the olden days, visitors would take gondolas through these canals.
Truly the canals should have flowed with gold, in tribute to the captured riches that made it all happen.
(To enlarge any picture above, click on it. Also, for more pictures from Portugal, CLICK HERE to view the slideshow at the end of the itinerary page.)
